Patterns and Equipment: Sewing Machines

Even the most basic model sewing machines offer a broad range of built-in stitches to select from--from utilitarian to decorative--for your use. And with the increase in technology, your sewing machine can even be hooked up to your personal computer for unlimited stitching capabilities. Many machines also accept “cards” or “disks” to increase their stitch selection.

All sewing machines share one important feature, no matter the number of stitches they offer--the thread tension. The strength of your seams depends on the correct thread tension. Before stitching on any garment, you should test the tension on a scrap of fabric on both the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Before adjusting your tension, check your thread choice and needle size for the fabric you sewing on. For normal sewing, you should be stitching with the same type thread through your needle and on your bobbin. A too large or too small needle will affect your stitch quality also.

As a general rule, you should only adjust your upper tension. In most cases, the bobbin tension has been factory set. The upper tension controls the thread that passes through the needle, If it is too loose, the needle thread will pull through to the underside of your fabric (1). If the bobbin thread shows through on the top and the needle thread lies flat on the surface; your upper tension is too tight (2). For a balanced tension, both threads are drawn equally into the fabric (3).