Cushion-backed carpet has its own bonded foam backing. It requires no stretching since it is simply fixed to the existing floor with the appropriate adhesive. The existing floor needs to be prepared carefully, if the material is relatively thin, since irregularities in the floor surface immediately beneath it might be visible.
If the subfloor has open knotholes or gouges, they should be filled and sanded smooth. Board subfloors or tongue-and-groove floors will show through the carpet. Plan to install a minimum ¼-inch underlayment, and fill all the cracks and nail-holes with floor filler.
Concrete subfloors must be completely free of moisture, since the carpet’s foam backing acts like a sponge. If the problem is minimal, apply a coat of sealer to the subfloor, If moisture persists, do not lay the carpeting. The use of cushion-backed carpet over plywood floors on sleepers or nailed directly to concrete is not recommended; use conventional carpet instead.
You can lay cushion-backed carpet directly on a tile floor, as long as it is flat and dry and you fill all grout lines with a latex-type underlayment.
Install a toothless binder bar with a flange that clamps down over the carpet to finish the edge at door openings. If you need to seam the carpet, begin with the instructions for how to cut and place carpet pieces. If not, begin directly with the explanation of how to glue down the carpet, after you’ve rough-cut it to size.
Cut and place carpet pieces. Roll out and rough-cut the carpet, allowing a 3-inch margin at all floor perimeter edges. Cushion-backed carpet is always cut from the face. Snap a chalkline on the floor where the seam will be placed. Align one edge carefully to the chalk- line, and place the second piece so that its edge over laps the bottom piece by ¼ inch. Fold both the edges back about 2 or 3 feet, and trowel a thin, even coat of adhesive onto the exposed floor. Unroll the bottom piece into place, carefully keeping its edge aligned to the chalkline. Work the carpet with your hands to force air bubbles out to the edge.
Apply seaming fluid. Avoiding getting any on the pile, lay a bead of seaming fluid on the adhered piece of carpet along the edge of the primary backing material.
Notch the nozzle so that when you run its tip along the floor, the bead is expelled at just the height of the primary backing, and not on the pile or foam.
Glue the seam together. Untold the second piece of carpeting back so that its edge tightly abuts the adhered piece. Be sure any patterns line up. Since you allowed a quarter-inch overlap, the edges should press tightly against each other. The bulge produced by the allowance should be worked gently away from the seam. Where there are gaps, carefully rejoin both edges with your fingers until the entire seam is tight. Let the seam adhesive dry thoroughly before completing the installation, Snip of f any loose ends of pile or backing threads.
Glue down the carpet. Starting from the side walls, fold each edge in so that the untrimmed carpet edges don’t bind against the wall, Then pull the whole piece back to the already adhered seam area. If there is no seam, pull the single piece back until at least half the floor is exposed Trowel adhesive onto the floor and roll the carpet onto it toward the wall, working out any wrinkles or bumps with your hands as you go. Repeat the pr for the other half of the carpet. If you have to deflate a bubble, poke it with an awl. Then use a plastic syringe (which you can buy when you purchase the carpet) to inject contact adhesive into the hole, and press the car pet firmly onto the adhesive.
Trim and finish the edges. Trim the excess carpet by using a stair tool to seat and crease its edge well into the floor-to-wall joint. Use a utility knife to trim the carpet, leaving a margin equal to the thickness of the carpet around each wall’s edge. Tuck that margin down against the wall with a stair tool. Flatten down any metal doorway flanges over the exposed carpet edge by placing a block of wood at one end and hitting it with a hammer, working your way across the flange. The wood will protect the flange from dents as the hammer bends it down tightly onto the carpet’s edge. Caution:
Some carpet adhesives are noxious or even flammable. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, and make sure the room is well ventilated. Extinguish nearby pilot lights and other open flames.
Prev.: Conventional Carpet
Next: Installing Trim Details
Wednesday, 2011-05-11 12:33