Since pressing takes place throughout the sewing process, good pressing
techniques are as necessary as good sewing skills. At the start, pressing
ensures that both pattern and fabric are wrinkle-free for accurate cutting.
Through every step of construction, pressing smoothes and shapes a garment.
If you keep pressing equipment near the sewing machine, you'll be less
tempted to skip this step. An ironing board, a steam iron, and a press cloth
are essential. A tailor's ham helps press curved areas. Other pressing equipment,
although less essential, can make the job easier.
PRESSING BASICS
To press fabric correctly, use the following guidelines:
• Press rather than iron. As you've read, the iron slides back and forth
when ironing. This can cause the fabric to wrinkle and stretch, which makes
pressing a better technique for garment construction. In pressing, the iron
is lowered to the fabric, then raised up and lowered to a different spot.
The heat and steam do most of the work, so heavy pressure isn't needed.
See Fgr. 1.
Pressing 1
• Use the correct temperature setting. Set the temperature according to
the fiber content of your fabric; however, don't use the cotton and linen
settings for pressing because the fabric could scorch. If your fabric is
a blend, use the setting for the most heat-sensitive fiber in the blend.
• Always test fabric for any reaction to heat, steam, and pressure. Press
a scrap of fabric and check for damage or marks left by the iron. If the
fabric sticks, puckers, or melts, the iron is too hot. Check to see whether
the fabric holds water spots. Too much pressure can crush napped fabrics
or create press marks on the right side.
• Press on the wrong side of the fabric whenever possible. Pressing on
the inside prevents shine on the right side of the fabric. Also, seams can
be seen clearly and pressed correctly.
• When pressing on the right side of the fabric, always use a press cloth.
Some areas, such as pleats and pockets, may have to be pressed on the outside
of the garment. A press cloth pre vents leaving shiny marks on fabric.
Using a Press Cloth 2
[[[Pressing Seams: To press a serged seam, press the seam allowance
flat on both sides. Then press the seam allowance to one side.]]]
• Never press over pins. Pins leave an impression on fabric and may scratch
the iron.
• Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them.
This reduces bulk in the finished garment.
• Press directionally with the grain of the fabric.
This prevents stretching.
• Press seams flat before you press them open.
Press one side and then turn the seam over and press on the other side.
This allows the stitches to settle into the fabric. Puckers will be eliminated and the seam will be smoother when pressed open.
Using Strips of Paper 3
• Press curved areas over a curved surface. Use a tailor's ham to maintain
the curved shape o the fabric.
• Prevent press marks on the right side of the fabric. Slip strips of paper
or an envelope under the edges of seam allowances, darts, and pleats when
pressing. This pre vents imprints on the outside of the garment. See Fgr.
3.
• Check the fit of the garment before you press any sharp creases, such
as pleats.
• Don't overpress. Avoid heavy pressure and let the steam do the work.
Use the tip of the iron in small places. Never press the fabric completely
dry.
• When pressing an entire garment, start with small areas. First press
the collar, cuffs, and other detail areas. Then press the small areas, such
as sleeves and yokes. Finally, press the large flat areas of the garment.
== Wiki Sewing ==
Thread
Thread comes in a wide variety of colors, as well as a variety of fibers and weights. Try not to buy thread just because it's pretty.
All-purpose thread is used for almost any general sewing task.
Cotton and polyester thread is the most readily available. If you are sewing
with cotton fabrics (as in quilting), you should sew with cotton thread.
Thread quality will make a difference in the way your machine functions and the strength of your seams. Bargain-bin thread isn't a bargain if a
seam comes undone or your machine will not sew properly.
Furthermore, inexpensive thread may be more susceptible to shrinking, which
can lead to puckered seams after one washing. Protect your time investment
by spending a bit more on quality thread to avoid shrinking thread.
Due to variations in the U.S. and European thread weight labeling system,
seeing and touching the thread is your best bet. Use lighter, thinner weight
thread for lightweight fabrics and heavier, thicker weight thread for heavier
fabric.
Choose thread color to match the background or predominant color on the
right side of the fabric. When an exact match isn't available, choose a
slightly darker color thread as thread sews in one shade lighter.
FAQ: Does thread age?
Thread does age. Test thread before you use it by stretching a length of
it between both hands. If it breaks easily, it will break easily in the
garment. Store thread out of direct sunlight and dusty environments to preserve
its original quality.
<<== Wiki Sewing cont. ==>>
PRESSING TECHNIQUES
[[[SAFETY: Use special care with an iron. Never touch a hot iron
except on the handle.
Keep your fingers and face away from the steam. Don't overfill the iron
or the water can boil out. If recommended by the manufacturer, use distilled
water.
Always rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on the soleplate. Turn
off and unplug the iron after each use. Some irons should be drained of
water before storing.]]]
Which pressing method to use depends upon whether the garment area is flat,
curved, enclosed, gathered, or has fullness.
Flat Areas Flat areas, such as straight seams, can be pressed flat on the
ironing board.
1. Place the garment on an ironing board with both seam allowances to one
side. Press the seam line to blend the stitches into the fabric.
2. Open up the fabric and place it over the ironing board. Press the seam
allowances open, using your fingers and the tip of the iron to open the
seam completely. Check on the right side to be sure the seam is perfectly
smooth.
If a seam is to be pressed to one side, on a yoke or waistline, for example,
first press the seam flat.
Then press the seam allowances open. Finally, press the seam allowances
toward one side.
Curved Areas
Darts and curved seams should be pressed over a curved tailor's ham to
maintain their shape.
1. Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches into the fabric. Press
the darts only up to the point, and not beyond, to prevent pressing in a
crease.
2. Place the fabric wrong side up over a tailor's ham. Press the seams
open; then press the darts to one side.
Enclosed Seams
Enclosed seams are on the edge of a collar, facing, or cuff. They should
be pressed flat and then pressed open. This creates a sharper edge when
the garment section is turned to the right side.
1. Press the seam flat to blend stitches.
2. Press the seam open. Use only the tip of the iron near the point or
corner.
3. Turn right side out. Gently push out the corner or point.
4. Press the garment section flat on an ironing board, slightly rolling
the seam to the under side. This helps prevent the seam from showing at
the edge of the completed garment.
Gathered Areas
Gathers and ruffles should ripple softly below the seam line. The iron
shouldn't pleat or crush them.
1. Press the seam allowances together to flatten the fabric above the seam
line.
2. Slip the garment over the end of an ironing board. Turn the seam allowances
away from the fullness.
3. Press directly up into the gathers with the point of the iron. Hold
the seam allowance taut above the gathers by using your other hand to lift
it slightly up from the ironing board. This helps prevent folds from pressing
into the gathers at the seam line. See Fgr. 4.
Pressing Gathers 4
Shrinking in Fullness
Sometimes you'll need to shrink in the fullness of a hem or sleeve cap.
1. Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure
is applied. See Fgr. 5.
2. Use your fingers to pat out any folds and flat ten the fabric.
3. Press the edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness. Check to be sure
the sleeve or hem looks smooth on the right side of the garment.
Using Steam on Fullness 5
FINAL PRESSING
If you press carefully while constructing your garment, only a light pressing
will remove any final wrinkles caused by handling. This final pressing should
be merely for touch-up. It should never be a cure-all for poor pressing
during construction.
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