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Important Skills as Learning Objectives:
- Replace a gas stove.
- Replace an electric stove.
- Replace a heating element on an electric stove.
- Replace an oven heating element.
- Repair a range hood.
- Replace a range hood.
One of the most common duties of a facilities maintenance technician is the replacement and repair of gas and electric appliances.
Although some appliances require specialty equipment and training to repair, in most cases the facilities maintenance technician can still perform basic maintenance on these appliances.
Repairing or Replacing a Gas Stove
When repairing or replacing a gas stove, always follow the manufacturer's instruction as well as any local and state building codes. In addition, always ensure that the area is properly ventilated and free from open flame. Some of the more common problems associated with gas stoves are listed next.
One of the most common problems associated with a gas stove is a burner that will not light. In this case, follow these steps:
1. Lift the top of the stove.
2. Remove the burner unit by lifting up the back end of the unit and sliding the front end off the gas-supply lines (Fgr. 1).
3. Use a needle or other sharp object to poke into the pilot hole and clean out any debris. Brush the remaining debris away from the tip with a toothbrush. Hold a lit match to the opening to relight the pilot. Lower the lid and turn on your burners to test them (Fgr. 2).
4. Identify a spark ignition range by a little ceramic nub located between two burners. Look for wires running to it (Fgr. 3).
5. Brush away gunk around and on the igniter with an old toothbrush. Clean the metal "ground" above the igniter wire as well. It must be clean to conduct a spark. Close the lid and turn the burner knob to "light" to test the burner.
Fgr. 1: Burner unit
Fgr. 2: Cleaning pilot holes on gas burner
Fgr. 3: Spark ignition range on a gas burner
Fgr. 4: Removing oven door
Gas Stove Will Not Heat Properly
In the case of a gas stove that will light but does not, however, heat properly, follow this procedure:
1. Remove the oven door (Fgr. 4).
2. Spread a protective covering on the bottom pan to absorb soap and water that may spill during cleaning.
3. Locate the upper burner, attached to the roof of the oven. Using a screwdriver, remove the burner cover, if there is one (Fgr. 5).
4. Using a scrub brush and warm soapy water, clean the burner flame openings to remove the debris. Use a needle or other sharp object to clean out dirt that has collected in the openings (Fgr. 6).
5. Remove the protective covering and lift out the bottom pan. The lower burner will be underneath. Clean the lower burner, following the same procedure described in Step 4.
6. Wipe up any water or dirt that collects under the burner. Let all the parts dry thoroughly; then reassemble the oven.
Fgr. 5: Upper burner in the oven of a gas stove
Fgr. 6: Cleaning burner flame openings
Fgr. 7: Turn off gas line
Fgr. 8: Disconnect copper tubing
Fgr. 9: Disconnect gas lines
Replacing a Gas Stove
When a gas stove can no longer be repaired or it is no longer feasible to repair, then the gas stove must be replaced.
Although replacing a gas stove is typically a simple procedure, the same safety procedure outlined in repairing a stove should be followed.
1. Shut off the gas line (Fgr. 7).
2. Lay down a piece of plywood to avoid damaging the floor and drag the stove away from the wall. Disconnect the stove from the gas lines.
3. Remove the cover plate at the base of the stove with a screwdriver.
4. If you have old copper tubing, you will first need to disconnect the line at the fitting to the stove. Loosen the nut and slide this back. This is a flared copper-type fitting (Fgr. 8).
5. Drag the unit on top of the plywood, avoiding damage to the gas line. Disconnect the old gas line at the coupling. Be careful not to crimp the copper piping (Fgr. 9).
6. If you have natural gas, skip to Step 11. If you have LP gas, you will need to replace the range orifices or spuds (Fgr. 10A and B).
7. Orifices and spuds are individually sized with marks and colors. Loosen the old spud and replace with the new one. The oven orifices will then need to be adjusted.
8. Using an appropriate size wrench, tighten down the brass fitting.
9. There may be two orifices, one for the broiler and one for the main oven.
10. Underneath the unit, you will need to reverse the plastic pin in the regulator. Remove the hex nut and flip the plastic pin and reassemble the nut (Fgr. 11).
11. To connect the gas line, use a new connector line with the threads on the pipe identical to the old connector (Fgr. 12).
12. To make the connection, coat the threads with pipe compound.
Fgr. 10: Range orifices and spuds (A), (B)
Fgr. 11: Regulator underneath the range unit
Fgr. 12: Connector line connecting gas lines
Fgr. 13: Testing gas line Fgr. 15: Level stove
13. Tighten the fitting and test by applying soapy water.
If it bubbles in a few seconds, you have a leak and will need to i x the leak (Fgr. 13).
14. The antitip bracket is mounted to the wall behind the stove as per the manufacturer's instructions (Fgr. 14).
15. Move the new stove into place.
16. Level the new stove by adjusting the legs (Fgr. 15).
17. Open the gas line. If there is any smell of gas, shut off the supply and call a qualified service technician.
Repairing and Replacing an Electric Stove
Like gas stoves, an electric stove will malfunction from time to time and therefore will require maintenance. Typically with an electric stove the heating element (a device used to transform electricity to heat through resistance) will be the source of trouble. In other words it eventually burns out. Sometimes, when an element burns out, you can see that the coil burns in two, or blisters and bubbles. When your heating element burns out, you have to replace it because it is not repairable.
Burned-out heating elements are one cause of a burner not working correctly, but it is not the only one. Before you replace the element, troubleshoot and identify the problem.
Troubleshooting the Problem
Before attempting to repair an electric stove, always read and follow the manufacturer's instruction. Also the technician should have a good understanding of electricity, therefore if necessary review Chapter 5 on electrical theory before attempting to troubleshoot or repair an electric stove. In addition, be sure that any replacement parts have the same electrical rating as replacement parts. Some common problems associated with electric stoves are given in Table 1 as well as outlined in the following steps.
1. Determine whether the element plugs into a receptacle, as most do, or is wired directly. If it plugs in, move on to Step 2. If the element is direct-wired (Fgr. 16), move on to Step 4.
2. Remove the plug-in element and inspect the prongs: Lift up the front of the element, then pull the element straight out. Check to see if the prongs are burned, pitted, or otherwise damaged. If they are, you'll need to replace the element and the receptacle (Fgr. 17).
3. If the prongs are clean, test the element: First reinstall it in the receptacle and turn on the burner-sometimes an element just needs to be reseated to work right. If it still does not heat, turn off the burner, exchange the element with another of the same size, and test. If the burner works now, the original element needs to be replaced.
4. If the element is direct-wired, lift the front of the element and pull it out until you see a white porcelain insulator with clips on each side (Fgr. 18).
5. Use a flat-head screwdriver to open the insulator and remove the clips. Then separate the two halves of the insulator.
6. Remove the screws that hold the element to its wiring.
Exchange the element for another of the same size. Reassemble both elements so no bare wires are left exposed, and then turn on the burner. If the new element works, the original element needs to be replaced.
Replacing an Element
As mentioned earlier one of the most common problems associated with an electric stove is the failure of the electric heating elements.
To replace a heat element do the following:
1. Get a new heating element identical to the one you are replacing (Fgr. 19).
2. Install the new element in the stove. For a plug-in element, just plug it into the receptacle. For a direct-wired element, screw the new element to its wiring, reassemble the two halves of the porcelain insulator, and snap the clips in place (Fgr. 20).
3. Test the element to make sure that it's operating.
Fgr. 16: Heating elements
Fgr. 17: Prongs on heating element
Fgr. 18: Porcelain insulators
Fgr. 19: Heating elements
Fgr. 20: Installing new heating elements
Replacing a Receptacle
Over time the contacts in a receptacle will oxidize and/or corrode and therefore will need to be replaced. When this happen, follow this procedure:
1. Disconnect the old receptacle. If it is screwed to the cooktop, use a screwdriver to disconnect it. If it is held in place by a spring steel clamp, spread the clamp and pull out the receptacle (Fgr. 21).
2. Lift the cooktop so that you can access the receptacle wiring (Fgr. 22).
3. Remove the receptacle. Wrap the wires with masking tape and label them so that you can install the new receptacle correctly; then cut the wires (Fgr. 23).
4. Install the new receptacle. Strip the ends of the wires with a wire stripper, then twist the wires together and on wire nuts to hold them together. Reinstall the receptacle in the cooktop and install the element (Fgr. 24A and B).
Fgr. 21: Disconnecting old receptacle
Fgr. 22: Cooktop lifted to access receptacle wiring
Fgr. 23: Wires being cut
Fgr. 24: (A) and (B) New receptacle installed
== Table 1: Common Problems Associated with an Electric Stove ==
Range will not heat -- No voltage at the element (outlet) --Correct voltage.
Blown fuse or tripped breaker-- Replace fuse or reset breaker. If problem persists, contact an electrician.
Broken or burnt wire in power cord, Check the continuity of the cord and replace if necessary. If the problem persists, contact an electrician.
Faulty range plug receptacle-- Replace the range plug receptacle.
Burnt or oxidized prongs on range plug-- Replace the range plug.
Surface burner does not heat; Loose connections at the element Tighten connections.
Burnt, corroded, or oxidized control switch; Clean contacts using sandpaper. If necessary replace control switch.
Burned-out element--Replace elements.
Surface burner too hot Switch connection reversed or incorrect--Consult the manufacturer's instructions.
Oven does not heat--Faulty oven control--Adjust and/or replace control.
Incorrect voltage at the element--Contact an electrician.
Loose connections at the element--Tighten connections.
Burnt, corroded, or oxidized control switch--Clean contacts using sandpaper. If necessary replace control switch.
Burned-out element--Replace elements.
Faulty thermostat--Replace thermostat.
Oven over heats--Faulty oven control--Adjust and/or replace control.
Incorrect element--Install correct element.
Stove heats unevenly--Electric stove tilted--Level electric stove.
Oven Does Not Heat Properly
As mentioned earlier besides a burnt-out heating element, a fault thermostat will cause an oven not to heat properly. The purpose of the thermostat is to regulate the temperature in the oven by permitting current to flow to the element.
Testing the Thermostat
Although some technicians believe that when in doubt about a piece of equipment or a device it is better to replace it, this is not always the right approach. Before attempting to replace a thermostat, always verify that the thermostat should be replaced. This is accomplished by doing the following:
1. Place an oven thermometer inside the oven and shut the door (Fgr. 25).
2. Turn on the oven, set it for 350°F, and let it heat for 30 minutes.
3. Check the thermometer. Most thermostats are accurate to within 25°F. If the thermostat is off by more than 50°F, the thermostat is bad and you will need to have a professional replace it. If the thermostat is off by less than 50°F, adjust the thermostat.
4. Locate the adjustment screw. On some thermostats, the adjustment screw is on the back of the thermostat knob; on others it is inside the thermostat shaft (Fgr. 26).
5. To make a temperature adjustment on the back of a knob, remove the knob and loosen the retaining screws on the back. Turn the center disk toward "hotter" or "raise" to increase the temperature or toward "cooler" or "lower" to decrease the temperature. Tighten the screws, reinstall the knob, and test the oven. Readjust the knob if necessary (Fgr. 27).
6. To make a temperature adjustment inside the shaft, remove the knob and slip a thin flat-head screwdriver into the knob until it engages the adjustment screw in the bottom. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to raise the temperature and counter clockwise to lower it. Each quarter-turn will change the temperature about 25°F.
7. Reinstall the knob and test the oven. Readjust the temperature if necessary.
Fgr. 25: Oven thermometer Fgr. 26A: Thermostat and screw Fgr. 26B: Thermostat knob
Fgr. 27: Oven heating element
Replacing the Oven Heating Element
As stated earlier one of the leading causes for an oven not to heat properly is a burnt-out heating element. To replace a heating element follow this procedure:
1. Remove the oven racks so that you have access to the element (Fgr. 27A and B).
2. Remove the two screws from the element mounting plate, which sits flush against the back wall of the oven.
3. Pull the element gently out as far as the wire will allow.
4. Remove the supply wires from the element terminals (Fgr. 28).
5. Replace the element with a new identical one.
6. Put the new element in place and reconnect the leads. Usually only two wires go to the element; it doesn't matter which wire attaches to which terminal, as long as they're screwed on tight.
7. Push excess wire back behind the insulation.
8. Line up holes and reinstall the mounting bracket using the same screws you removed earlier (Fgr. 29).
9. Replace the oven racks.
Fgr. 28: Element terminals
Fgr. 29: Mounting brackets
Replacing an Electric Stove
As with a gas stove, when the repair of an electric stove becomes too extensive or the replacement parts are no longer available then it might be necessary to replace it.
When replacing an electric stove, always follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. Also it might be necessary to update the wiring and/or breaker in the fuse box. Never purchase an oversized breaker or allow the stove to be installed with a breaker that is too small. This can cause serious electrical problems that can lead to equipment damage and/or malfunction.
1. Lay down a piece of plywood to prevent damaging the floor and drag the stove away from the wall.
2. Unplug the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Remove the old stove and replace it with the new one.
4. Plug in the new stove.
5. Move the new stove into place.
6. Level the new stove by adjusting the legs.
Troubleshooting and Repairing an Ice Maker in a Refrigerator
If the ice maker does not make ice but you can see the arm swing into motion and you hear a buzz for about 10 seconds after it is finished, this normally means that there is a problem with the water supply line.
1. Check to make sure the water supply line is not kinked behind or beneath the refrigerator. If the ice maker has frozen up, it will need to be unthawed.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. Remove the ice bin and loose ice from the ice maker.
4. Find the fill tube, the white rubber-like hose, that delivers water into the ice maker and pull the small metal cap off of the housing that holds the full tube down (Fgr. 30).
5. Warm the hose and surrounding mechanism to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. This can be done using a hair dryer or soaking the supply tubing in hot water.
Fgr. 30: Fill tubes
Replacing an Ice Maker
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions on replacing the ice maker. Also, when ever possible use only genuine manufacturer's replacement parts. This will ensure that the parts fit and function properly.
Repairing a Refrigerator
Major problems will require a trained refrigeration technician. However, many times the problem is simple and can be corrected. The potential problems that can easily be fixed by a facilities maintenance technician are given next.
Because each model will vary, refer to the specific refrigerator manufacturer's instructions.
Testing and Replacing Door Gaskets
1. Test the door seal in several places by closing a piece of paper in the door, and then pulling it out. There should be some resistance, indicating that the door is sealed.
2. Remove the old gasket one section at a time. Some gaskets are held on by retaining strips, others by screws or even adhesive.
3. Install an identical gasket using the retaining strips or screws or new adhesive.
Troubleshooting Dishwasher Problems
As with any appliance, troubleshooting is a necessary process to determine why the appliance is not operating correctly. Table 11-2 outlines some common problems associated with dishwashers.
++ Before doing any work on your dishwasher, turn off the power at the circuit-breaker box. ++
Dishwasher doesn't work (no power) -- Blown fuse or tripped breaker Replace fuse or reset breaker. If problem persists contact an electrician.
Dishwasher is unplugged -- Reconnect the dishwasher.
Broken or burnt wire in power cord Check the continuity of the cord and replace if necessary. If the problem persists contact an electrician.
Faulty door latch-- Replace door latch.
Faulty door switch-- Replace door switch.
Faulty timer motor-- Replace timer motor.
Faulty selector switch -- Replace selector switch.
Faulty motor -- Test and replace motor relay if necessary. Test and replace motor if necessary.
Dishwasher motor does not start but the motor hums -- Check water supply If water supply is off, turn on.
Faulty door latch -- Replace door latch.
Faulty door switch-- Replace door switch.
Check inlet valve filter screens--Clean inlet valve filter screens.
Check fill tube for kinks -- Straighten fill line.
Dishwasher does not drain Faulty drain valve Replace drain valve Sink drain and/or drain hoses restricted Clear restriction Dishwasher leaks water and/or soap around the door Incorrect detergent Make sure that detergent is intended for a dishwasher.
Faulty door latch -- Replace door latch.
Faulty door switch -- Replace door switch.
Damaged door seal Replace door seal.
Damaged spray arm -- Replace spray arm.
Dishwasher does not dry properly Burned-out element Replace elements.
Faulty thermostat -- Replace thermostat.
== ABOVE: Table 2: Common Problems Associated with a Dishwasher==
Water on the Floor--Around the Dishwasher
Water around the dishwasher could mean that either the gasket is damaged or the sprayer is clogged. In the case of leaking or pooling water around the dishwasher, take the following steps to rectify the problem.
== A dishwasher can also leak if it is not level. ==
1. Check your gasket for cracks or deterioration (Fgr. 31).
2. If the gasket is damaged, remove it by unscrewing it or prying it out with a screwdriver. Replace it with the same type of gasket as what was removed. Before installing the new gasket, soak it in hot water to make it more flexible.
1. Remove the sprayer and soak it in warm white vinegar for a few hours to loosen mineral deposits. Then clean out each spray hole with a pointed device such as a needle, awl, or pipe cleaner (Fgr. 32).
Fgr. 31: Gasket around dishwasher
Fgr. 32: Dishwasher sprayer
If the dishwasher is overflowing and the drain and drain valve are not obstructed check the float and float switch.
This is accomplished by doing the following:
1. Open the dishwasher door and locate the float switch.
It should be a cylindrical-shaped piece of plastic and may be set to one side along the front of the cabinet or near the sprayer head in the middle of the machine (Fgr. 33).
2. Check the float to make sure that it moves freely up and down on its shaft. (You may have to unscrew and remove a protective cap to get to the float.) If the float sticks, you'll need to clean away any debris or mineral deposits that are causing it to jam.
Fgr. 33: Dishwasher float switch
3. Pull the float off the shaft and then clean the inside of the float with a bottle brush. Clean the shaft with a scrub brush.
4. Reinstall the float and check that it moves smoothly.
5. Set the dishwasher to fill, and check to see if it overflows.
Replacing a Dishwasher
When it becomes inefficient to repair a dishwasher or the replacement parts are no longer available, then it is necessary to replace the dishwasher. When replacing a dishwasher, always follow all local and state building codes as well as all manufacturer's instructions and recommendations.
1. Turn off the power to the dishwasher circuit at the electrical service panel.
2. Shut off the hot water supply to the unit. This is typically under the sink if the supply comes from there, but it may also be under the dishwasher or in the basement if the supply comes through the wall or floor of the dishwasher opening.
3. Remove the access and lower panels at the base of both dishwashers (Fgr. 34).
4. Remove the electrical box from the old dishwasher (Fgr. 35).
5. Unscrew the wire nuts and pull apart the wires. Start with the green wires, then white, and then black.
6. Disconnect the drain hose from the waste tee on the drain line, or the inlet on a disposer, using pliers to open a spring clamp or a screwdriver to open a screw type clamp. Do the same where it connects to the dishwasher. If you cannot easily access that connection, you can disconnect it later (Fgr. 36).
7. Disconnect the water supply line from the water inlet on the dishwasher (Fgr. 37).
8. Lay down a piece of plywood to drag the old dishwasher onto.
9. Open the door to access and remove the screws that secure the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Then adjust the front leg levelers to lower the unit so that you can slide it out (Fgr. 38).
10. Take the new dishwasher out of the box and check the back to verify that all of the connections are in place.
11. Take the cap off the drain line connection at the dishwasher (Fgr. 39).
Fgr. 34: Accessing lower panels
Fgr. 35: Electrical box on dishwasher
== Have an old towel or drip pan handy to mop up or catch water that will spill out of drain and water lines as they are disconnected. ==
12. Attach the drain line to the dishwasher.
13. Using pliers, crimp the clamp around the hose to secure.
14. Close and lock the door; then slide/roll the machine to the opening.
15. Adjust the leveling legs as indicated by the manufacturer to raise the dishwasher (Fgr. 40). Use a level to verify that the unit is level. Install the mounting screws into the underside of the counter.
16. Reverse the removal procedures to connect water, drain, and electric lines. Cut off the exposed ends of electrical wires and use wire strippers to strip about ½ inch of insulation from the ends. Twist wires together (white-to-white, black-to-black) and on new wire connectors. Secure the ground (green) wire. Tighten the strain-relief connector.
17. Install decorative panels.
18. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to adjust the door so there is an even space on both sides. You might, for example, need to move the door spring to a new mounting hole.
19. Open the water valve to check for leaks in the water line at valve and inlet connections. Restore power and operate the machine to check for drain leaks.
20. Reinstall the lower and front access panels.
Fgr. 36: Drain hose
Fgr. 37: Water supply line
Fgr. 38: Removing screws in counter
Fgr. 39: Drain line connection
Fgr. 40: Leveling legs of dishwasher
Repairing a Range Hood
A range hood that does not adequately remove smoke and smells from your kitchen is usually caused by one of the following reasons:
The grease filter or some part of the exhaust ductwork may be clogged.
The fan may be bad.
Fgr. 41: Exhaust fan filter
Unclogging the Exhaust Fan
1. Remove the filter and soak it in a degreasing solution until the grease is dissolved (Fgr. 41).
2. Wash with warm, soapy water to remove any traces of the degreaser. Also, a filter may be put in the upper rack of the dishwasher and run it through a normal cycle.
3. Remove the exhaust fan. Unplug the fan and remove it from the hood (Fgr. 42).
4. Clean the fan blades with an old toothbrush dipped into a cleaning solution.
5. Clean the inside of the exhaust ductwork, using a plumber's snake with a heavy rag tied around the end. Push the snake through the ductwork. Soak the rag in a cleaning solution and run it through the ductwork. Rinse out the rag and repeat the operation until the duct appears to be clean (Fgr. 43).
6. Clean the exhaust hood that is attached to the outside of your house (Fgr. 44).
7. Reinstall the grease filter.
Fgr. 42: Remove exhaust fan
Fgr. 43: Clean exhaust ductwork
Fgr. 44: Exhaust hood on outside of house
Replacing a Range Hood
1. Remove the old range hood (Fgr. 45).
2. On the new range hood, remove the filter, fan, and electrical housing cover. Remove the knockouts for the electrical cable and the duct (Fgr. 46).
3. Protect the surface of the cooktop with heavy card board and set the range hood on top of it. Then connect the house wiring to the hood. Connect the house black wire to the hood black wire and the house white wire to the hood white wire. Then connect the house ground wire under the ground screw and tighten the cable clamp onto the house wiring.
4. Using the mounting screws to install the hood, slide the hood toward the wall until the mounting screws are engaged. Tighten the screws securely with a long handled screwdriver. Then replace the bottom cover.
5. Fasten the ductwork to the hood using duct tape to secure joints and make them airtight (Fgr. 47).
6. Install the light bulbs and replace the filters. Turn on the power at the service panel and check for proper operation.
Fgr. 45: Range hood Fgr. 46: Range hood with knockouts Fgr. 47: Hood ductwork
Repairing a Microwave Oven
Because microwave leakage can be hazardous and high wattage is present, limit your microwave repairs to light bulb changes, if the light bulb is easily accessible, and checking to make sure that the oven is getting power. For other repairs, call a qualified technician to make repairs on a microwave oven.
Troubleshooting a Washer
If the washer is not getting either hot or cold water, refer to your owner's manual to ensure that the washer is not operating as it should. If the washer isn't operating as it should, there may be a problem with the water inlet valve.
Checking the Water Inlet Valve
1. Disconnect the appliance's power supply.
2. Locate the washer's water inlet valve. It will be at the back of the washer, and it will have water hoses hooked up to its back (Fgr. 48).
3. Shut off the supply of water to your washer (Fgr. 49).
4. Disconnect both hoses at the back of the washer. Point the hoses into a bucket or a sink, and then turn on the water supply again. Do this to confirm that you are receiving adequate water pressure and that there is not some sort of blockage in the line (Fgr. 50).
5. Inspect the screens found inside the valve. Clean out any debris you find. You should be able to pop them out with a flat-head screwdriver. Do use caution when handling the screens as they are irreplaceable.
Fgr. 48: Inlet valve
Fgr. 49: Shutting off water supply Fgr. 50: Disconnect hoses
Replacing Washer Inlet Valves
1. Disconnect the appliance's power supply.
2. Locate the washer's water inlet valve. It will be at the back of the washer, and it will have water hoses hooked up to its back (Fgr. 51).
3. Shut off the water supply to your washer.
4. Disconnect both hoses at the back of the washer. Point the hoses into a bucket or a sink; then turn on the water supply again. Do this to confirm that you are receiving adequate water pressure and that there is not some sort of blockage in the line.
5. Remove the screws that hold the inlet valve in place (Fgr. 52).
6. Remove the hose connecting the valve to the fill spout.
7. Connect your new water inlet valve to the water line.
8. Attach both water supply hoses. Turn the water on and check for leaks.
9. Reconnect the washer to the power supply.
Fgr. 51: Inlet valve
Fgr. 52: Inlet valve
Washing Machine Fills Slowly
When a washing machine fills slowly, the problem is usually a clogged intake screen.
1. Turn off the water faucets that feed the machine (Fgr. 53).
2. Unplug the washer and pull it far enough away from the wall that you can get behind it to work.
3. Remove each water-supply hose (Fgr. 54).
4. Locate the screens and gently pry out the screens using a small flat-head screwdriver (Fgr. 55).
5. Clean the screens with an old toothbrush.
6. Reinstall the screens.
7. Reinstall the hoses and tighten the couplings securely.
8. Turn on the water to check for leaks; then plug in the machine and push it back into position.
Fgr. 53: Water faucets
Fgr. 54: Water-supply hose
Fgr. 55: Intake screen
Fgr. 56: Fasten drain hose
Fgr. 57: Attach hose to the washer
Installing a New Washer
The installation of a new washing machine is a simple process; however, moving the washing machine into position and out of the facility can be tricky as well as dangerous. Whenever possible, it is strongly recommended to have additional help moving the new machine into position and the old machine out of position.
1. Turn off power to the old washer.
2. Remove the old washer.
3. Clean and dry the floor and move the new washer into place to be connected.
4. Fasten the drain hose to the washer with a hose clamp. Be sure not to tighten it too much or you might strip the screw (Fgr. 56).
5. Attach the water hoses to the washer. The hot and cold on the taps and on the washer are usually clearly marked. Red indicates hot; blue indicates cold (Fgr. 57).
6. Plug the washing machine in and move it into place, placing the drain hose in the drainpipe when you can reach it.
7. Push the washer the rest of the way into the space, being careful not to crimp the hoses.
8. Leave about an inch and a half of space around the washer to allow room for it to vibrate.
9. Turn the water faucets on.
10. Turn the power back on.
11. Run a cycle without clothes or detergent before you use the machine to clear the water pipes and make sure that the drainage is adequate.
Troubleshooting a Dryer Dryers typically consist of very few parts and therefore are usually simple to trouble shoot and maintain. Most dryer problems can be attributed to either a burnt-out heating element or a clogged vent.
Dryer Takes a Long Time to Dry Clothes
If a dryer is taking too long to dry clothing, it is likely that the heating element is partially or completely burned out. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific dryer brand to test and replace the heating element if necessary.
The Vent Is Clogged
If the dryer feels really hot, but the clothes take forever to dry, a clogged vent could be the problem.
1. Check the vent flap or hood on the outside of the house. Make sure that you feel a strong flow of air coming out when the dryer is running. If not, try cleaning out the vent with a straightened clothes hanger (Fgr. 58).
2. If the vent flap is not the problem, check for a kink or sag in the duct and straighten the hose if necessary.
3. If a kinked or sagging duct is not the problem, disconnect the duct from the dryer and look for blockage inside with a flashlight. To remove the blockage, shake it out or run a wadded cloth through the duct. If the duct is damaged, replace it (Fgr. 59).
Fgr. 58: Vent flap
Fgr. 59: Dryer duct
A List the steps for unclogging a vent.
B What should the technician check if a dryer does not dry clothes?
C What should the technician check if a dishwasher does not dry properly?
D List the steps for replacing a washer inlet valve.
E List the steps for replacing a range hood.
F List the steps for unclogging an exhaust fan.
G List the steps for replacing a dishwasher.
H List the steps for replacing a gas stove.
I List the steps for installing a washer.
J What should the technician check if an electric oven does not heat properly?
Replacing an Electric Stove
Upon completion of this job sheet, you should be able to replace an electric stove.
In the space provided below, list the steps for replacing an electric stove.
Instructor's Response: ____
Replacing a Dishwasher
Upon completion of this job sheet, you should be able to replace a dishwasher.
In the space provided below, list the steps for replacing a dishwasher.
Instructor's Response: ______
Also see more in our Fundamentals of Facilities Maintenance series: